At Mon Repos Beach, on Australia’s East Coast, we waited and waited, and then we waited some more, but as night deepened it became clear no turtles were hatching that evening. With heavy rain earlier in the day, the rangers felt it might be a bit cool, but still they scoured the protected beach for signs of activity. We, on the other hand, were all in the new turtle centre, sweltering in our raincoats so we would be ready to make our way onto the pitch-black beach the minute